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          游黄山记·(清)钱谦益

          作者:来源:发表于:2017-02-22 11:27:33阅读:


            由祥符寺度石桥而北,逾慈光寺,行数里,径朱砂庵而上,其东曰紫石峰,三十六峰之第四峰[1],与青鸾、天都,皆峄山也。过此,取道钵盂、老人两峰之间,峰趾相并,两崖合沓[2],弥望削成[3],不见罅缝,扪壁而往[4],呀然洞开[5],轩豁呈露,如辟门阖[6]。登山者盖发轫于此[7]。

            里许,憩观音崖。崖欹立如侧盖[8]。迳老人峰,立石如老人伛偻[9],县崖多奇松[10],裂石迸出,纠枝覆盖,白云蓬冒松起。僧曰:“云将铺海,盖少待诸[11]?”遂憩于面峰之亭[12]。登山极望,山河大地,皆海也。天将雨,则云族而聚山[13];将晴,则云解而归于山。山河大地,其聚其归,皆所谓铺海也。云初起如冒絮[14],盘旋老人腰膂间[15],俄而没顶及足,却迎凌乱[16],迫遽回合[17],弥漫呍裑18],海亦云也,云亦海也,穿漏荡摩[19],如百千楼阁,如奔马,如风樯,奔踊却会[20],不可名状。荡胸扑面[21],身在层云中,亦一老人峰也。久之,云气解驳[22],如浪丈水势[23];络绎四散[24],又如归师班马[25];倏然崩溃,窅然不可复迹矣[26]。回望老人峰,伛偻如故,若迟而肃客者[27]。缘天都趾而西[28],至文殊院宿焉。

            黄山自观音崖而上,老木搘径[29],寿藤冒石[30],青竹绿莎[31],蒙落摇缀[32],日影乍穿[33],飞泉忽洒[34],阴沉窅窱[35],非复人世[36]。山未及上曰翠微。其此之谓乎?升老人峰,天宇恢廓[37],云物在下[38],三十六峰,参错涌现,怳怳然又度一世矣[39]。吾至此而后乃知黄山也。

            二

            山之奇,以泉、以云、以松;水之奇,莫奇于白龙潭;泉之奇,莫奇于汤泉[40];皆在山麓。桃源溪水流入汤泉,乳水源,白云溪东流入桃花溪,二十四溪皆流注山足,山空中,水实其腹,水之激射奔注,皆自腹以下,故山下有泉而山山无泉也。

            山极高则雷雨在下,云之聚而出,旅而归,皆在腰膂间,每见天都诸峰,云生如带,不能至其冢[41];久之,滃然四合,云气蔽翳其下,而峰顶故在云外也。铺海之云,弥望如海,忽焉迸散,如凫惊兔逝[42]。山高出云外,天宇旷然,云无所附丽故也[43]。

            汤寺以上,山皆直松,名材桧、榧、楩、楠[44],藤络莎被,幽荫荟蔚[45]。陟老人峰,悬崖多异松,负石绝出。过此以往,无树非松,无松不奇:有干大如胫而根蟠屈以亩计者[46];有根只寻丈而枝扶疎蔽道旁者[47];有循崖度壑又因依于悬度者[48];有穿罅冗缝崩迸如侧生者[49];有幢幢如羽葆者[50];有矫矫如蛟龙者[51];有卧而起,起而复卧者;有横而断,断而复横者。文殊院之左,云梯之背,山形下绝,皆有松踞之,倚倾还会,与人俯仰[52],此尤奇也。

            始信峰之北崖,一松被南崖,援其枝以度,俗所谓接引松也。其西巨石屏立[53],一松高三尺许,广一亩,曲干撑石崖而出,自上穿下,石为中裂,纠结攫拿[54],所谓扰龙松也。石笋矼[55],练丹台峰石特出离立,无支陇,无赘阜[56],一石一松,如道之有笄[57],如车之有盖,参差入云,遥望如荠,奇矣,诡矣[58],不可以名言矣,松无土,以石为土,其身与皮干皆石也。滋云雨,杀霜雪[59],勾乔元气[60],甲拆太古[61],殆亦金膏水、碧上药、灵草之属[62],非凡草木也。顾欲斫而取之,作盆盎近玩,不亦陋乎[63]!

            度云梯而东,有长松夭矫[64],雷劈之仆地,横亘数十丈,鳞鬣偃蹇怒张。[65],过者惜之。余笑曰:“此造物者为此戏剧,逆而折之,使之更百千年,不知如何槎枒轮图囷[66],蔚为奇观也[67]。吴人卖花者[68],拣梅之老枝,屈折之,约结之,献春则为瓶花之尤异者以相夸焉[69]。兹松也,其亦造物之折枝也与!”千年而后,必有征无吾言而一笑者[70]。

            注释:

            [1]三十六峰:黄山支脉有三十六峰,即天都、钵盂、青鸾、紫石、朱砂、莲花、桃花、石人、云际、云门、浮丘、容成、轩辕、上升、清潭、翠微、仙都、望仙、九龙、圣泉、石门、石柱、石床、丹霞、炼丹、狮子、云外、紫云、芙蓉、飞龙、采石、叠障、仙人、棋石、布水、松林。又有飞来、始信、石鼓三峰,亦有名而不在三十六峰之内。[2]合沓:重重叠叠,聚集在一起。[3]弥望削成:望去四处都是陡壁,好象劈削而成的。[4]扪:摸。[5]呀然:口张开的样子。这里形容洞天的样子。洞开:敞开。[6]“轩壑”二句:清楚地显露出来,象打开门一样,轩壑,开朗,开阔,呈露,呈现显露,辟,开,门阖,即门,用木做的叫阖,用竹苇做的叫扉。[7]发轫:启程,动身出发。轫,止住车轮转动的木头。车启行时须先去轫,故“发轫”为“启行”。[8]欹立:斜立。侧盖:倾斜的车盖。盖,车盖,车上遮阳障雨的东西。[9]伛偻(yǔ lǚ雨吕):驼背。[10]县,同悬。[11]“云将”二句:云将要铺海了,何不稍许等一等呢?云铺海,黄山的奇观之一。站在山顶,见山下白云四合,山高出云外,青天白日,看去云雾弥漫,象大海一样。这种景象,叫“云铺海”。盖,同“盍”,何不。少,稍微。诸,“之乎”的合音。[12]面峰之亭:背靠着山峰的亭子。[13]云族而聚于山:云簇拥而集合于山。族,丛聚,簇拥。[14]如冒絮:象冒出棉絮。[15]盘旋老人腰膂(lǚ吕)间:盘旋在老人峰的腰脊之间。膂,脊梁骨。[16]却迎凌乱:有的向后退,有的向前进,错杂凌乱。[17]迫遽回合:流动急剧,有时回旋而聚拢。迫遽,急剧。[18]呍眩è zā俺扎):周匝,环绕。[19]穿漏:本指屋顶穿孔,这是形容云层有时穿了洞。荡摩:动荡相摩,形容云变化多端。[20]奔踊却会:奔驰,腾踊,退却,聚会。这是形容云浮动的各种姿态。[21]荡胸:涤荡胸怀。[22]解驳:云气解散的样子。[23]如浪丈水势:象波浪倚仗水势。丈,同“杖”。[24]络绎四散:接连不断地向四处分散。络绎:往来不绝。[25]如归师班马:象往回撤退的兵马。班,调回。[26]“窅然”句:去得无影无踪,不可再追寻了。[27]“若迟”句:象等待着迎接客人。迟,等待,肃客,迎客。[28]“缘天都”句:缘着天都峰山脚向西。[29]老木搘(zhī支)径:老树支撑在路上。搘,支撑。[30]寿藤冒石:老藤覆盖着石头。寿藤,老藤。冒,覆盖。[31]莎(suō唆):莎草,草本植物。[32]蒙落摇缀:蒙覆,缠绕,摇曳,连缀。[33]日影乍穿:太阳的光线偶尔从树荫里透射过来。[34]飞泉忽洒:飞泉偶尔从崖上洒落下来。[35]阴沉窅窱(yǎo tiǎo咬挑第三声):阴暗深远。窅窱,同“窈窕”,深远曲折的样子。[36]非复人世:好象不再是人世间。[37]天宇恢廓:天空辽阔无边。恢廓,广阔的样子。[38]云物:各种景象。[39]“怳怳(huǎng谎)然”句:恍惚好象又到了另一个世界。怳,同“恍”,恍惚,模惚,模模糊糊。[40]汤泉:一名泉砂泉,在紫石峰下。[41]“云生”二句:冒出的云气象带子一样绕在山腰,不能到达山顶。冢(zhǒng种),山顶。《诗经&#8226;十月之交》:“山冢崒崩。”朱熹注:“山顶曰冢。”[42]如凫(fú扶)惊兔逝:象野鸭惊飞,野兔奔逝。形容云很快地消散。[43]“天宇”二句:天空辽阔,云没有地方依附的原故。附丽,依附,附着。[44]桧(guì贵):榧(fěi诽)、楩(pián骈)、楠:都是树的名称。[45]“藤络”二句:藤缠绕着,莎草覆盖着,幽暗荫蔽,繁密茂盛,荟(wěi讳),草木繁多。[46]“有干大”句:有主干只如小腿太而根蟠曲要用亩来计数的。蟠,屈曲,环绕。[47]“有根只”句:有根只有八尺到一丈长,而枝叶茂盛遮蔽道旁的,扶疏,枝叶繁茂。[48]“有循崖”句:有沿着山崖横过山谷,依着悬崖的。[49]“有穿罅”句:有穿过隙缝冒出来象侧生的。[50]“有幢幢”句:有摇摇晃晃象皇帝乘坐的用鸟羽装饰的车盖的。幢幢,模糊摇晃的样子。羽葆,用鸟羽装饰的车盖,一般只有皇帝所乘的车子上才有。[51]矫矫(jiǎo饺):刚强勇猛的样子。[52]“倚倾”二句:倚靠着,倾斜着,环绕着,聚集着,随着游人的位置而或高或低。还,同“环”,围绕。[53]屏立:象屏风一样耸立着。[54]纠结攫拿:形容互相缠绕的样子。攫拿,争先恐后地夺取。[55]石笋矼(jiāng江):地名。[56]“无支陇”二句:没有分出的山岗,没有多余的支脉。陇,同“垄”,土冈,赘(zhuì坠)。多余的。阜(fù付),土山。[57]笄(jī基):古代盘头发用的簪子。[58]诡:怪异。[59]“滋云雨”二句:被云雨滋润,被霜雪肃杀。[60]勾乔元气:吸收元气而孕育胚芽。元气,中国古代的哲学概念,指产生和构成天地万物的原始物质,或指阴阳二气混沌未分的实体。[61]甲拆:同“甲坼”,草木种子外皮开裂而萌芽。太古:远古,上古。[62]金膏水:犹玉液琼浆之类的东西,相传是山川和气所生,喝了可以长生不死。碧山药:不详。灵草:又叫“灵芝”或“紫芝”,菌类植物,古人认为是仙草。[63]不变陋乎:不也太浅陋了吗?浅陋,见闻不广。[64]夭矫:屈伸自如的样子。[65]“鳞鬣”句:松皮和松针矫健有力地向上伸展着。鳞,指松树的象鳞甲般的外皮。偃蹇,高耸。怒张,有力地向上伸展。[66]槎枒(chá yā查呀):枝条向旁伸展。轮囷(jūn军):屈曲的样子。[67]蔚为奇观:聚集成为奇异的景象。[68]吴人:江浙一带的人。[69]“献春”句:到了春天就做成特别奇异的瓶花来互相夸耀。[70]征:证验,证实。

            钱谦益(1582—1664),清初著名文学家,字受之,号牧斋,晚年又号蒙叟和东涧遗老,常熟(今江苏省常熟县)人。明神宗万历三十八年(1610)进士,曾属东林党。崇祯时,官至礼部侍郎,与温体仁等争权失败,革职。南明福王弘光时,为礼部尚书。后投降清王朝,以礼部侍郎管秘书院事,因病告归。他博览群书,工诗文,著有《初学集》、《有学集》。

            钱谦益的《游黄山记》一共有九篇,这里选的是其中的第三篇和第八篇。

            第三篇作者着力描写了黄山的“云铺海”。“云铺海”本是黄山的奇观。据《安徽省志&#8226;黄山图》:“又时有云铺海之奇。出半出云,一白无际,微风鼓荡,尤为异观。”文章以生动的笔触,描绘了从起云到铺海到云散的全过程,写得生动、具体,让读者能从中领略到这一奇观的实况。

            第八篇着力描写了黄山的“异松”。作者有时用全镜头的写法,概括“异松”的各种姿态,有时用物写镜头的写法,把接引松、扰龙松和石笋矼、炼丹台的“如首之有笄,如车之有盖”的一石一松突现出来。通过这些描写,我们的确感到黄山“无处不松,无松不奇”。

            两篇文章各有一个描写的侧重点,避免了一般的平铺直叙,语言也简洁生动。
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